Vapefly Horus RTA Introduction
Horus: The ancient Egyptian god of the Sky, who “covers everything”, with a falcon’s head featuring a (tearful!) falcon’s eye that “sees everything”. This eye was considered as a symbol of protection.
With the Horus RTA, this falcon’s eye appears in two halves, at the top and at the bottom of the internal structural frame of the tank. Perhaps, this is the Vapefly Horus RTA’s marketing point, due to the “split” protection (provided by its design to its user), “located” at the top and at the bottom of the device’s design. These protections will be revealed in the course of the review.
Vapefly Horus RTA Parameters
- Diameter: 25.0mm
- Height: 49.7mm
- Capacity: 4ml/2ml(TPD Version within a removable silicon part)
- Tank Material: SS with Glass
- Drip Material: Resin
- Deck/510 pin: 24k Gold Plated
- Coil Rebuildable: Single Coil Build
- Thread: 510 thread
But, why is this tank’s structural metal frame placed inside the glass-tube tank and not outside of it (to also, somewhat, protect the glass-tube)?
Inside The Vapefly Horus RTA
If we dismantle and carefully examine the Vapefly Horus RTA, it is understood that this design’s choice aims at increasing the tank’s available liquid capacity, under the “restriction” of the available outer diameter of the 25mm tank, without further increase of its height (it’s already large enough, after all). In order to understand this design’s choice, please notice that the tank’s available liquid capacity also counts the necessary thickness of the glass tube. It must not be very thin to not easily break during the disassembling/assembling process of the Horus. The important point, though, is that such a design’s choice was necessary due to the large outer diameter and height of the “bell” (chamber).
Why is such a wide and high “bell” needed?
In its “guts” the “bell” includes a central wide steam chimney and a lateral air-feeding channel that “downloads” the air to the coil. However, since the air from its top inlet (of the airflow ring) has to travel a long route to get down to the coil, it needs a spacious air passage to bring it close to the coil without severe friction. Then, close to the coil, the air must be compressed more (by small-sized air-feeding holes) to increase the flow velocity of its air-beam at the “last moment”, as close as possible to the coil. The purpose of such a design’s choice is no other than ensuring a rich flavour.
Therefore, the Vapefly Horus RTA is no ordinary top-airflow RTA. It ensures, though, the “no-leakage” characteristic of a top-airflow system.
The most important characteristic is the final part of the air-supply system to the coil, which ensures simultaneous “side” and “bottom” air-feed on it.
Vapefly Horus RTA Airflow
The side air-feed is performed through a “grid” (perforated plate) to reduce the amount of air that hits the coil sideways. Thus, most of the “downloaded” air is fed to the bottom air-feed hole (underneath the coil). At the same time, the quantitative “addition” of its side-airflow and its bottom-airflow to the coil must be “harmonious” (with the appropriate flow velocities from both sides).
This can be succeeded if the number and diameter of all the holes are properly calculated. This particular “cumulative” airflow system is simplistically described by Vapefly with the “b” airflow scheme, as the different characteristic of the Horus RTA from an ordinary top-airflow RTA. Note that this “grid” of the side air-feed freely rotates inside the “bell”, so that it can “follow” the rotation of the entire metal top of the structure as it’s screwed to the deck/base.
It is obvious that certain knowledge of Physics is “hidden” in the design of the entire Horus air-supply system.
As You Begin With Your Vapefly Horus RTA
As soon as you open the box of the Vapefly Horus RTA and start to dismantle it, you must first observe the o-rings positions (before you start washing it), so you would know where to put them back again after cleaning the Horus the first time. Care must be taken not to lose any o-ring during the washing, because they are made of transparent silicone and do not easily stand out on every background. However, there are many spare o-rings in the packaging.
Although the Horus RTA comes crystal-clear cleaned, it is always necessary to have an initial wash (after dismantling). Just use dish-washing detergent in warm water (not too hot). The Horus RTA is very easy to wash it and wiped right after with just a kitchen paper-towel. Its o-rings do not need to be “greased” at all after washing.
It shouts… “clouds”, the “beast”. You see, the Horus RTA has a 25mm diameter and a 50mm height (including the drip tip) with a 4ml liquid capacity (for the TPD version it has a silicone “tab” inside the tank that you just remove once you’ve opened it) and a wide-bore colorful 810 resin drip tip, usual to “cloud-chasing” RTAs.
Vapefly Horus RTA Continued
And then you see the drip tip converter (from 810 to 510) inside the packaging and you… “relax” somehow. You put the drip tip converter and your own wide-bore 510 drip tip and think “this is what we call an adaptive design to different vaping styles, from DTL to MTL”. You guess that, but is it so? You’ll find that not only it is so, but you can draw both restrictive and airy puffs.
The 810 drip tip and the 810/510 converter do not have o-rings (Goon-styled), but there is a substantial o-ring inside the metal top cap. This metal top cap is also designed as a heatsink that performs quite efficiently (as the resin drip tip does not heat up, even in chain vaping).
Vapefly Horus RTA Deck Intro
Horus has a GTA-styled deck, but a low-mounted one (since there would be no leakage due to the top-airflow design). Thus the chimney gains height, providing a relatively cool steam to the mouth and a longer steam-compression “phase” for more intense flavour.
It is a single-coil deck and can accept coils up to 5 mm of outer diameter (theoretically). However, depending on the thickness of any coil wire you choose, the dimensions of the bottom-airflow hole (below the coil) guide you to which appropriate pivot-core you can choose and up to which coil length you will build (in order not to leave your coil-build protruding outside the bottom air-hole).
Vapefly Horus RTA’s Deck
It is a very easy coil-setup/build deck, letting you use plenty of cotton inside your coil with its tails lying down to the base, (in order to drain the last drop of liquid in the tank). Just take care to insert the initially wetted cotton into the cotton channels of the deck. To prevent the tank’s inner frame from being stuck to the base when unscrewing the Horus’s base (for whatever reason), you don’t have to screw everything very tight. The very good quality silicone o-rings won’t allow any leakage anyhow.
The Horus RTA is easily liquid-replenished from above, by unscrewing the metal top cap (which has circumferential slots for easy grip/unscrewing and an internal silicone lining/oring for sealing the tank). Then, two large liquid-filling holes are revealed in the upper metallic lid of the tank and they are hosted in a ducted groove, circumferentially around the chimney’s exit to the top cap. Thus, any excess liquid that may occur -when filling the tank with the bottle- will re-enter into the filling holes.
You can unscrew the deck/base (for any reason) without having to empty the tank from the liquid inside. You just turn the Horus upside down.
Vapefly Horus RTA Bits and Pieces
All detachable parts do not need to be screwed too tight to each other, as their connections are sealed with good quality silicone o-rings. Once again, o-rings do not necessarily need to be “greased” after washing Horus. There is no leakage issue whatsoever.
Inside the Horus package. There is a sachet with lots of additional o-rings, screws (three flat-headed and three hex-headed), an Allen key and a triple screwdriver. You can also find a spare glass-tube and a cleaning cloth. There is also a sachet with some cotton accompanied by two pre-made coils of 0.2 Ohms with Ni80 (0.4 + 0.08 * 2) wire in a 3mm pivot-core, for your immediate out-of-the-box first-time build (this coil heats-up well and fast with just 25W).
Vapefly Horus RTA Packaging
Vapefly Horus RTA’s size next to the “Wall Crawler” mod.
On board the “Wall Crawler” mod. You can see the holes of the airflow ring and … the two halves of the Horus god’s falcon tearful eye!
With the drip tip converter (from 810 to 510) and my own wide-bored 510 drip tip.
My first build (already used) with a humble Kanthal simple wire. Not to be scared the first time you use!
With the pre-made Ni80 coil included in the Horus’s package. The size of the air hole is shown below the coil, along with its air-insertion at the bottom of the deck.
On board the “Primo Mini” mod.
On board the “Pico 25” mod.
Maybe it is not so … “beasty” after all or… I have probably got used to it!
Vapefly Horus RTA Video
The Vapefly Horus RTA Story
An RTA-trainer for the introduction of a tight-MLT vaper into the world of airy-DTL puffs and clouds.
The reason why an MTL vaper might seek to try airy-DTL puffs (the first time) would probably be due to “investigating” the taste of some liquid-“groups” that a tight MTL RTA does not “enjoy”. Some liquids need more watts, a large vaporization chamber and lots of air to pay-off.
How, then, a conservative MTL vaper easily gets into the world of the loose pulmonary puffs (clouds are not his goal, actually, but these go together).
The training with the Vapefly Horus RTA Begins
First, he learns to make his own vaping liquids. Pulmonary RTAs “eat their guts” due to the higher wattage and the kind of wires that you “load” to them. The fact that we, vapers, “eat our guts” with these RTAs, due to the increased flavour they provide, it’s something we won’t mention.
Then, he buys the Vapefly’s Horus RTA, the “beast”! The rest is the “beast’s” job. Trust me.
As a good teacher of the pulmonary world, Horus will take you by your MTL “hand”, with a humble Kanthal. “He” will let you use a simple 26ga wire in a 3mm pivot-core, your usual “moderation” of 1Ω (or so) and your conservative 15W (or so).
“He” will put the 810/510 drip tip converter on and will let you pick your own wide-bore 510 drip tip, for not to be “frightened” with your initial impression of his wide-bore “beasty” 810 drip tip (since you are a total newbie in such RTAs).
“He” will even allow you to adjust the airflow ring to your usual conservative MTL air-feed and will let you draw your MTL puff, from tight to airy, depending on your usual vaping habits.
Then, when you decide to “explore” a more intense flavour of your liquids, the Horus will show you to gradually raise your wattage and -at the same time- to open the airflow ring’s holes, without being afraid that you’ll burst into coughing (as it usually happens when you suddenly “open” your lungs to the vaping “clouds”).
Somewhere there you will hear the Horus’ pot boiling at the press of the fire button. Your 510 drip tip will begin to condense the steam so much that will make you feel it too hot. It’s like Horus shouts at you, “it’s up to here, buddy, with your 510 drip tip game… put on the 810 one”.
The Training Story with Vapefly Horus RTA Continues
Once you put it on, you feel that you can no longer suck the hot steam. You have already reached 25-30 watts on the simple Kanthal 1Ω coil (or so), with one hole of the airflow ring open on both of its sides. Then, Horus yells at you, “We do not suck, buddy… just take a breath over the boiling pot”.
So, you just touch your lips to the 810 drip tip’s top edge, hit your mod’s fire button for a while and take a breath (not necessarily deep or long, as those “crazy” cloud-chasers do on the YouTube videos you’ve seen). That’s it! You’re in … the clouds!
Soon, you’ll get impatient. You’ll find yourself loading the Horus with “complex” coils, from Clapton and beyond (flat twisted, alien Clapton, mix twisted, fused Clapton hive, tiger, quad…). And you will “try” the liquids you made yourself at the “unknown” tenths of watts that each e-liquid might need to give the best of its flavour in such a steam-creating chamber.
The Training Story with Vapefly Horus RTA ends here
You must also reduce your liquid’s nicotine content from now on, for not increasing your blood pressure after several hours of vaping “in the clouds”. That also means even less cost for you, when making your liquids.
Of course, down the road, you’ll get yourself a dual-battery mod (to have longer battery life with lots of watts). But, as a newcomer to the pulmonary world, it’s better to choose a mod that quickly fires up your coil, in order to inhale dense steam with short-lasting puffs. However, Ni80 helps a lot in that “department” with its fast firing-up (probably, that’s why it is included in the Horus package by Vapefly).
For the time being, I’m comfortable with Vaptio’s Wall Crawler mod (with its single 18650 battery, but with its very fast and able firing-up operation), since (for the time being) my tobacco-type e-liquids do not need lots of power to “flourish”. Οf course, I also carry a second charged battery with me to get me through a whole day’s vaping out of the house.
I am not in the vaping business. I found vaping as the escape door from my 25 years of smoker’s imprisonment. It just took me four days of attempting to totally get out of it, thanks to the appropriate –for me- “equipment” (includes e-liquids). Now, vaping “equipment” has become another one of my fields of interest, for helping others to discover, on their own, their personally appropriate “equipment”.
I am a hands-on enthusiast… by genes. I am triggered by everything that evokes any data already stored in my knowledge base, been a Physicist and an Electronics Engineer (for more than 35 years). I am intrigued by everything new that my knowledge-filter considers interesting enough to be analyzed for entering into my memory compartment. That’s why you will find me open-minded and out-of-the-box thinking. I have an urge for unfolding hidden “pictures” of design thinking on everything man-made.